I feel the need to first dispel a myth about New Zealand...you absolutely cannot see it all in less than a month. In fact, I'd allow at least 6 weeks to tour around both islands and take it all in at a comfortable but steady pace. This country is full to the brim with things to see and do...
Auckland - March 25 - 27
First impression of Auckland was a bit rough....my hostel was located at the bottom of a VERY steep hill and my suitcase almost beat me to the bottom had it not been for my cat-like reflexes and ungraceful recovery....I'm sure your imagination is filling in the details nicely!! Anyway, what I saw of the city is nice. I was only there for a couple days, so I wandered up Queen Street to the harbour and caught a fairy out to Rangitoto Island, which is actually a now dormant volcano and provides stunning panoramic views of Auckland at the summit.
Waitomo & Rotorua - March 27 - 28
Imagine floating through darkness in a boat full of people, all looking upwards and gazing in silent awe at living stars....that's Waitomo's glow worm cave in a nutshell...I'd heard about it for years from my parents and now finally got the chance to experience it for myself!! Also visited Rotorua, the infamous sulfur-scented city literally built on a geothermal landmine. Mandatory items on the sightseeing list here are the bubbling mud pools (I seriously could've listened to the strangely satisfying 'gloop' noise for ages had the bus driver not threatened to leave me there!), the Lady Knox Geyser (goes off everyday at 10:15am) and the colourful hot spring pools. I'm sitting infront of the Champagne Pool here, and couldn't get over the lime green colour of the Devil's Bath!!!
Taupo & Tongariro - March 28 - 30
The first thing I did upon arrival in Taupo was sign up for a tandem skydive...unfortunately because my shoulder's given me grief lately, the tandem dive master advised against it, so I reluctantly cancelled...SO disappointed!!
To make up for this letdown, I completed what is known as New Zealand's best one-day hike - The Tongariro Crossing. It is an absolutely gruelling 8 hour trek that leaves every muscle and bone in your body sore!! For three days afterwards, I'd mutter "ouch" anytime I walked, climbed or descended stairs, sat, lay down or blinked....But it really was worth it. The landscape and scenery changed so drastically from one viewpoint to another, it almost felt like I visited 4 or 5 completely different worlds all in one day, walking along valleys, up mountains, across craters and through rainforests. I highly recommend this hike to anyone who travels here....it's truly spectacular!!!
Wellington - March 30 - 31
New Zealand's capital city obviously has an affinity for cafes...to an extreme!! Seems like every second shop serves food of some kind....not a convenient set-up for someone who's trying to fit into a specific dress in Mexico for April 19!!!
Wellington is a beautiful city though, with houses sweeping down the hillside towards the harbour. It's home to the well known Te Papa Museum, which features hands-on displays and insights into the Maori culture. My Irish friend Caitriona and I ventured over to the museum and attempted to appreciate the exhibits, but our efforts failed for two reasons....one, we were absolutely exhausted from the hectic pace we've been keeping the last week. And two, it was laundry day, which meant we were both wearing the only clean clothes we had....and they were obviously clean for a reason!! Two fashion faux-pas, we were!!!
Nelson & Abel Tasman - March 31 - April 2
The nice little town of Nelson is where I bought a much needed rain jacket for $4NZ....seems that the rain curse is still with me after all!!!
Luckily we had nice weather for our hike into the magnificent Abel Tasman National Park!! (Don't ask why I signed up for another hike....I was still in pain from the last one and obviously delirious!!) Besides, the Abel Tasman is a must do...every Kiwi I've talked to has been adamant that I visit this picturesque and relatively untouched area of the South Island. So, along with Caitriona and two Canadian girls, Jordi and Mel, I spent 4 1/2 hours walking the winding trails through lush rainforest, past beautiful waterfalls, and up to occasional viewpoints that gave breathtaking views of the sea!!! This picture shows the view from our lunch stop...not too shabby if I do say so myself!!!
Greymouth - April 2 - 3
Everyone says that Greymouth is boring. Even Lonely Planet says "aside from drinking Monteiths, there's not much to do." So, in true form, I became determined to discover that hidden gem of interest that would bring masses of tourists from all corners of the globe into this small city, flooding it with tourism like it's never seen before....
However, after meandering down the main street finding nothing more than mechanic shops and the odd toothless local, I shrugged, wandered into the Monteith's brewery and joined my fellow tour mates over a pint of beer....
Cheers Greymouth....you stumped me!!!
Franz Josef - April 3 - 4
With all the activities to do in this glacier town - heli-hikes, glacier walks, ice caves - it may be surprising that I didn't do anything here. I've literally reached a point of pure exhaustion, with the last few days of travel being nothing more than a series of blurs separated by long bus rides. So when we pulled into Franz Josef, I was running on fumes. So, like it or not, I did nothing but have a long hot shower, write in my journal, read, listen to music...you get the picture. I even indulged myself in a little out-loud singing, something that you just don't get to do very often when travelling. Unfortunately one of my dorm mates happened to walk in just as I was about to reach the high notes of a favourite song...I just let my voice trail off and sat in awkward silence while she grabbed her shower stuff and left the room....So forgive me for not posting a picture for this one...you can just picture my red face and fill in the blank yourself!!!
Queenstown - April 4 & 7
In all honesty, I wasn't really looking forward to reaching Queenstown. Known as the adventure capital of the world, it offers every adrenaline rush activity imaginable....skydiving, bungy jumping, white water rafting...all the activities I want to do but can't because of my shoulder. But I only allowed myself a couple 'woe-is-me' minutes before moving on and enjoying the city for what I could. And luckily, I did get to live vicariously through Caitriona, who was crazy enough to do the Nevis Bungy Jump. I got harnessed up and went out to the cable car with her, dangling 134 metres above the deep valley below!!! She jumped without hesitation too - brave girl!!
Other Queenstown highlights include drinks around the fire at the Buffalo Club and the massive and delicious Ferg Burger!!!
Te Anu & Milford Sound - April 5 - 6
Any bus tour that takes you to Milford Sound will force you into a hectic one-day 13 hour return trip from Queenstown, so really the only way to see this remarkable landscape is to rent a car and do it yourself....and that's exactly what I did!! On Saturday afternoon, Me, Caitriona, and Vicky (a girl from England who I met in Greymouth) picked up our little Ford Focus from the rental company, threw our bags in and hit the road to Te Anu, the middle point between Queenstown and Milford and our stop for the night. Caitriona and I split the driving...I was impressed that the two girls trusted a Canadian who drives on the 'wrong' side of the road...but I actually adjusted fairly well to the driving!! The car unfortunately broke down right after this picture was taken, in the middle of nowhere with no cell reception and no Ford mechanics to solve the mystery. Never did figure out what went wrong...the car just started on the 50th try and we were back on the road...a little nervous but happy to be moving!!!
Through Homer Tunnel and down steep mountain roads, we finally emerged at Milford Sound. This place should be on everyone's list of must see's in this world. It is quiet, magestic and beautiful no matter what the weather's like. Even if it's a rainy day (a likely thing since it rains 2 out of 3 days here) there are just that many more powerful waterfalls flowing into the fiord. Luckily for me, I experienced it on a rare sunny day, and was absolutely priviliged to see a pod of about 8 dolphins playing near the shoreline, perhaps 100 metres away from the boat. It was one of those moments when I had to remind myself of where I was and how fortunate I am....truly magical!!
Dunedin - April 7 - 9
New Zealand is officially colder than I'd expected...by the time we reached Dunedin, I was wearing a t-shirt, sweater and jacket with jeans and shoes...warmest I've dressed since leaving home!! Our Dunedin hostel was an old ornate building that used to serve as a hospital. It had a TV Room in the former morgue (great place to watch a scary movie....if you're feeling brave!!) and heaters in each of the dorm rooms to take the chill off the drafts that wafted through the corridors like ghosts. Oh, and this hostel had the best showers....water pressure beyond a mere dribble!!!! Didn't really do much sightseeing here, aside from visiting the Cadbury Chocolate Factory (instantly adding 10 pounds!) and climbing up the World's Steepest Street, Baldwin Street (lost my breath and, hopefully that extra 10 pounds!)
Lake Tekapo - April 9 - 10
Although I was well rested after my lazy stay in Dunedin, I soon realized after arriving in Lake Tekapo that it was a far better location for relaxation. With not much to do here but sit and admire the mountains looming beyond the serene lake, soak in a hot spring pool and look at the star-filled sky, I was forced into further relaxtion here. Hopefully I'll be able to get myself out of relaxation mode or else I'll slip into that hippie mindset I was so keen on in Byron Bay!!! Beautiful place here that begs for a slower pace and a settled mind. I was more than happy to oblige!!!
Christchurch - April 10 - 12
Wow...deep breath Ang!
Reaching this city signifies a few sad endings for me and my travels. First I had to say good-bye to the wonderful friends I made through the Magic Bus, including my especially good friend Caitriona, who is carrying on through NZ and after a relaxing week in Thailand is heading back home to Ireland.
And, this city is my last new destination in my solo travels. From this point forward, every city I land in is one I've visited before, until I meet up with my family in Mexico. I spent my three days here wandering aimlessly, trying to wrap my head around the fact that this big, long trip I'd been dreaming about for so long was not only a reality but would soon become a memory, fading with each passing day. I started frantically trying to remember what the name of the hostel in Singapore was, how to say "How Much?" in Thai, how much home-brewed spirits I drank my first night in Australia (that memory has faded for reasons other than time!)...honestly though, it's scary how much those minor details mean to you as you travel, yet how quickly they illude recollection...It was because of this thought process that Christchurch was seen through blurry vision and a preoccupied mind...I think it was nice though!!!
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