accordingtoang's blog

For Those Living Vicariously...

I cannot stress how desperately vital it is that, for those of you who aspire to travel to Australia but have not yet done so, you drop whatever it is that you're doing and read "Down Under" by Bill Bryson. This book has quite literally made me burst out laughing in the middle of an airport, among many other places throughout this wonderful country!!!

His descriptions of Australia from an outsider's point of view are incredible...of particular meaning to me are his accounts of the oh-so-persistent flies (p. 189), the amazingly confusing coffee - I supremely miss the simple double double!! (p. 197) and the mayhem that takes place on Melbourne streets (p. 200). Buy this book!!!

Oh, and I had a great experience today on our quick liquor run...picked up two clear skin bottles of wine (leftovers from the wineries put in label free "mystery" bottles, if you will) for $5.99 each...oh, and they were purchased through the common drive-through liquor store...only in Australia!!

I'm having a truly great time!! The plan from here is to fly to Brisbane on March 1 and take the train directly down to Burleigh Heads to see my friend Alyssa, and then continue down the coast through Newcastle back to Sydney. In the meantime, I will continue reading, writing and basking in the beautiful, seasonal 33-38 degree Perth heat!!

Waves

I have officially ended two heat waves in Australia, and I believe the weather forecasters in both Melbourne and Perth could pinpoint a marked decrease in temperature the very moment that I stepped off the plane!!

Strange Art at the Docklands

It had apparently been over thirty prior to my arrival in Melbourne but on February 7, it became "much colder than usual" (a phrase I would hear repeatedly throughout my travels!) I stayed with my frend Andrea's family...her Mom Sue, Stepdad David and brothers Alex and Chris. They were incredibly hospitable...it was like staying in the lap of luxury compared to my hostelling days...my own room with a double bed and TV, plus a full-size bath towel (a real promotion from my washcloth-sized travel shammy!)

My days in Melbourne were spent catching up with old friends. Andrea and Kirsten, who I met on a European Contiki Tour, took me around the city to the Docklands and the Queen Victoria Market. I also went out for dinner with Steve, who I'd met in Thailand. We shared two authentic Ausse dishes....kangaroo salad and emu sausages! I also wandered along the Southbank and ventured south to St Kilda Beach on my own for a day.

Sunset Over the Indian Ocean

Okay, so skip ahead to Perth...temperatures over 35 prior to my arrival...barely reaching 25 after my arrival and overcast with rain. We even drove down to Margaret River for a few days in hopes that we would find hot temperatures and good wine...we did find the wine, and enjoyed it indoors while watching the unseasonable torrential downpour taking place outside. Oh, and did I mention that Melbourne was back up to 30+ temperatures the day after I left?? Not complaining though!! Still warmer than home!! I was lucky enough to see the sun set over the Indian Ocean...most beautiful sunset I have ever seen!!

I've been having a great time in Perth. I'm staying with Andrea and her three German housemates. Weather has improved, even yielding blue skies!! We headed to Scarborough Beach yesterday, where I encountered a wave of a different kind...

Me & My Relocated Shoulder

Funny how a nice refreshing swim in the ocean can quickly turn into an underwater mayhem of flailing limbs (and bikini top!) I was unfortunately caught in one such underwater drama and, upon resurfacing and returning my bikini top to its rightful place, I knew something was not quite right. Upon further inspection, I realized that my left shoulder was dislocated. So I made my way to the lifeguard station, telling myself on the way that this sort of injury happens all the time and they'll just put it back in place and the world will be right again...not so. They didn't have the facilities to deal with a dislocation, and neither did the clinic up the road. Andrea finally loaded me in her car and we drove into Subiaco in search of a hospital. After two hours of increasing pain, I finally found myself in Princess Margaret Childrens Hospital in the Emergency Department with a nurse telling me "You're a bit old to be in this hospital but we're going to treat you anyway", much to my relief! So after a fair bit of painkillers, in both gas and IV form, my shoulder was returned to normal using the pediatric method (no wrenching involved!!) and put in a sling...hence my slow, one-handed, finger-jabbing typing!! But in all seriousness, I can't thank the staff enough for helping me!! They were absolutely amazing!!

Clearly this will change my plans for Australia...I will bypass Cairns, The Great Barrier Reef, The Whitsunday Islands and Fraser Island, and have not quite worked out how I will manage with my pack.

Things happen for a reason though, so I'm not discouraged in the least!! In fact, if my influence on the weather attracts cold temperatures and rain, then the flood-stricken East Coast may be better off with my being as far away as possible!!

Sydney Part 2 (Finally!!)

The last half of my time in Sydney was markedly different from the first in one significant way...I felt less like a tourist and more like a local, as though I was no longer visiting, but rather settling into a comfortable routine as I would at home. In my opinion, this is a rare experience during travel...I put down my camera (for the most part!), saw fewer tourist attractions, and simply spent my days with the very good friends I made at Big Hostel...it was nice!

Australia Day - The Rocks

So, since I last wrote, Australia celebrated its 220th birthday (My Dad also celebrated a much younger birthday!) on January 26. It's true that Australians are proud of their country (and why shouldn't they be?) so the festivities were, as expected, incredible! About 15 of us from the hostel made our way down to the harbour with liquor in tow and were entertained by ferry races, skydivers and live music, all complemented by beautiful blue skies!! Surprisingly, finding bottle shops to replenish the liquor stock was a challenging task, which may explain why these events don't get too out of control!!! But we had a blast...so much so that we realized a bit too late that the fireworks were going off, and after running to the nearest look-out point, we were dazzled by a sky filled only with smoke, that seemed to indicate that the fireworks had been truly breathtaking!! 

Tanning at Manly

We topped the night off by attending a couple bars down on George Street for beers, odd entertainment and dancing. It was well after 4am before I crept into bed!!

After that wild Saturday night, Eve, Ruth and I were the only ones in good enough shape to take advantage of the sunshine and head to the beach. So in the course of two days we hit both Bondi and Manly, each boasting white sand and blue water. I was excited to finally fix the horrific tan lines that I got in Thailand, and I did learn from my mistake and slather on the sunscreen every hour. I am definitely darker than I've ever been before...no more pale me!!!

Dinner with Eve and Ruth

We've also started making use of the fully equipped kitchen in the hostel by cooking more meals. It's a way cheaper option as the food here is quite expensive...I've been spending about $10 per meal for take-away and $15 for sit down meals, whereas in a group cook, we may spend $5 or $6 each. The food here is a lot like at home, with additional favourites like fresh baked meat pies and vegemite. Speaking of which, I have tried vegemite, in keeping with my "When in Rome" travel philosophy. However, my first experience was not so good. Like a typical North American, I spread it on like peanut butter - nice and thick. Now, anyone who has tried it is probably cringing right now, because it is only spread in a thin barely-there fashion due to its extreme saltiness. My second experience was better, only because I had an Aussie prepare it for me!! I've also run into a bit of trouble ordering a coffee...at home it's a simple 'large double double', but during my first visit to a local coffee shop, I realized that the only offerings on the menu were flat white or long black....hmmmm. When I tried to explain that I wanted a fresh brewed coffee with 2 cream and 2 sugar, all I got were blank stares. Unfortunately for the shopkeepers, it was early in the morning, and I was grumpy after being drenched in the rain, so I think I came across as a bit of a crazy caffeine-addicted foreigner!!! I did finally figure out that the closest thing to what I wanted (and it still doesn't taste quite the same) is a flat white with two sugars!!

Blue Mountains and Jamison Valley

Clinton and I

Anyway, back to my activities...I did a day trip out to the Blue Mountains, which is 2 hours west of the city by train. I went with my friend Clinton, who I met on the plane into Sydney. He just finished teaching english in China (hence the long beard). We descended 900 steps down the Giant Stairway and hiked for 2 hours through the Jamison Valley before taking the Scenic Railway (steepest in the world) to the top of Echo Point.

Dinner at Centre Point

Big Hostel BBQ

My friends from the hostel are truly wonderful, although they constantly poke fun at me for my apparant lack of 80's movie knowledge!! We spend lots of time together, whether it's hanging out at the hostel or going out to various events around the city. We had a big BBQ on the roof one night as a birthday celebration for Eve and as a going away for a a few of our friends, who are continuing on to the rest of Australia. We were also lucky enough to catch the Opera in the Park, a free showing of La Boheme. John, Ruth and I also enjoyed incredible views of the city during our dinner at Centre Point. Unfortunately, most of these events were plagued by overcast skies, and my last week in Sydney was pretty much constant rain, to the point where there were literally rivers flowing down the sidewalks. I finally broke down and begrudgingly bought an umbrella...I had left my raincoat back in Thailand thinking "Won't need this...I'm heading to drought-stricken Australia." Yeah, not quite the case!!! 

Me, Sharon & David

I also had a great visit with some of my parents' old friends David & Sharon, who picked me up at the hostel and took me on an amazing tour of the city, focusing on places that I hadn't seen yet. We made our way through Centennial Park, Paddington, Double Bay, Watson's Bay, Coogee Beach, The Gap on the south head...we ate fish and chips at Doyle's, a restaurant that my Dad remembers from his time here, and we had a beer at the Hero of Waterloo, the oldest hotel in Sydney. Conversation was great...I could've listened to their stories of travelling the world for hours!!! Sharon also told me that I have my Mom's laugh...

Unfortunately I'll miss them the next time I pass through Sydney, but I've promised to come back and see them again!!  

I had a really hard time leaving Sydney and the friends I made there. I was quite happy at Big Hostel (I ended up staying there for 2 1/2 weeks, the longest I've stayed in any one place so far) and I feel very comfortable walking around the city (didn't get lost once!). The scenery is breathtaking, the activities were endless, the people were nice...I really do feel like Sydney could be a second home.

But, now it's on to see the rest of what Australia has to offer!!! Next on the agenda....Melbourne, rumoured to have a great live music scene and the best coffee in the country!!!

 

Sydney - Part 1

Sydney is a wonderful city!!! Even though the weather is unseasonably rainy lately (a good thing for farmers and others suffering from the drought), there are so many things to see and do, both inside and out that it's impossible to feel even a tinge of boredom here. The past few days have been plenty busy and the sun has been shining more and more every day!

The Best Hostel in Sydney - Big Hostel

So the first hostel I stayed in was not good...perhaps I experienced a bad time in a normally fun place, but I found the other travellers at YHA Sydney Central to be somewhat jaded...didn't talk much, spent lots of time doing hair and make-up and apparantly packed some sort of explosives in their bags that detonated upon arrival, spewing clothes, toiletries and food all over the floor. So I wandered the area and came across a smaller hostel on Elizabeth Street (Big Hostel) that gave an instantly positive first impression. So I've been staying there ever since and have loved it!! Has a great kitchen for cooking your own meals...the most I've 'cooked' is a sandwich!!

My first days were spent wandering the city with girls I met in my dorm. First Johanna (Germany) and I went to grab some lunch in a nearby cafe and ended up chatting until 2pm. She has been travelling around Australia for a year now and was able to fill me in on some great places to see. Afterwards, we split up and I went shopping...

Now, shopping is not something I plan on spending a lot of time doing while I travel. Lately, however, I have felt an increasing need to shed my backpacker garb and rediscover some feminine fashion...

Now this is a view!!

Put simply, I've felt frumpy and gross and want to look pretty again!!! So I bought a few items of clothes that just may help me achieve my desire to fit in with other Sydneysiders and maybe even be mistaken for a local!!! (Sidenote: I was asked for directions twice yesterday so it did work...but as soon as I opened my mouth and revealed my apparantly strong Canadian accent, they immediately lost all confidence in whatever directions I gave them!!) Anyway, it felt good to wear something nice for a change!!

I spent another day taking advantage of sunny weather by wandering around the city with Marjon (Holland), a 19 year old who is travelling alone for the first time for 4 months around Australia. It was during this tour that I got my first glimpse of the Sydney Opera House and the Harbour Bridge...no denying that I'm in Sydney after seeing those!! I of course started snapping lots of photos, thereby blowing my cover as a local!!

Lunch in the Park With Marjon

The Royal Botanic Gardens

We sat in the Royal Botanic Gardens and ate our free lunch of sandwiches, made from the fixings provided by the hostel for breakfast (Backpackers are notorious for getting two or three meals out of a free breakfast - tip for future travellers....always carry a ziplock bag to breakfast to sneak food into!!). The gardens are absolutely beautiful and house some pretty impressive flowers, bats, and spiders!!

The Wonderful Maclennans!!!

The hospitality that I've experienced during my travels has been overwhelming, and some friends of the family gave me yet another glimpse of that kindness. Bruce and Rainey Maclennan are good friends of my Uncle Grant's and knew my parents when they lived in Sydney about 30 years ago. When they heard I was travelling through, they welcomed me into their home on the North Shore for a night and treated me to a delicious dinner!! We talked about what my parents were like when they were my age (wild parties seemed to be mentioned often!). It was such a great evening!! I felt so lucky to have met them and plan to keep in touch!

Nook Avenue

The next day, Rainey drove me to #1 Nook Avenue - a personally important address that I would've had great difficulty finding on my own. The story goes - My parents travelled around the world when they were my age, and truthfully serve as the inspiration behind my own interest in travel. During their time abroad, they settled in Sydney, residing in a small apartment on Nook Avenue. I have heard about their experiences in travel ever since I can remember, and this address in particular always stuck in my mind. So, it obviously meant a lot to me to see their old Sydney stomping ground and try to visualize their life here!! I can see why they loved Sydney enough to stay for a while!!

Drinks at Hogs Breath Pub

My number one aim for my travels is to venture away from the tourist circuit and seek out the authentic experience...well, my evenings have all taken place in local pubs and bars consuming Australian brand beer!!! Now that's authentic!! I met up with Maegan, who I stayed with in Batemans Bay (She's completing some training in Sydney for a job she got back home). I also had a steak and beer with Caroline from England, who I met in Koh Phangan Thailand. And, last night I had a couple beers with Jen and Yeri, who live in Sydney and gave me the grand tour all day, featuring Chinatown, the University of Sydney, Pyrmont Bridge and Darling Harbour. We ended up at Bondi Beach in the Hogs Breath Pub. I met them in Chiang Mai Thailand on the 2 day trek. They've given me a long list of things to do while I'm here, including eating an authentic meat pie at Harry's in Woolloomooloo, doing a pub tour at The Rocks and, yes, even eat kangaroo meat!!

So, it's been a busy few days in Sydney, but I've absolutely loved them all!!! Today is a little more low key, likely consisting of internet and eating. I need to give my body a break from all the wandering and drinking. Plus I'm extra tired because there is a communal cold making it's way around the hostel and I'm showing signs of becoming its next victim, plus I woke up this morning to a 5am symphony of zippers and plastic bags (Note to other travellers: if you have to leave at the crack of dawn and you're staying in a dorm with 7 other girls, pack the night before!!!). May go out tonight with some people from the hostel to see some local bands play.

I want to thank everyone for their emails and/or phone calls!!! I love hearing from home, and find it especially encouraging to know that my messages are being read and enjoyed...because of this, I will continue to support the local internet cafe economy and update my posts and pictures!!

Love to all!!!

In the Land of Oz...

Oh Australia....awesome accent, great landscape, laid-back attitude, plenty to drink....I think I'm gonna like it here!!!

Maegan and Alun's place

I got claimed at the Sydney airport by Maegan and her boyfriend Alun...it was nice to step off a plane and actually have people to welcome you as opposed to watching everyone around you run and hug their loved ones!! Anyway, we made the three hour drive south along the coast to beautiful Batemans Bay. They live about 10 minutes away at Maloneys Beach.

Red Snapper and Homemade Bread

If I had to sum up my stay with them, it would be delicious food that gave me a whole new definition of 'fresh'. We caught all of our seafood fresh from the ocean and all the veggies came from their garden. Even the alcohol is fresh!!! They brew it themselves which, yes, makes for a very well-stocked bar!!! But honestly, the meals we had were unbelievable!! We had Oysters Kirkpatrick (cooked with cheese, ham and worcestershire sauce), red snapper and homemade bread, fish and chips (made out of the shark that I caught!), fresh garden salads...the menu was incredible and makes my previous diet of ritz crackers with cheese and buns with peanut butter seem a slight bit lacking!!

Maegan, Alun and Tony

We also went on a camping trip out to Clyde River National Park, where we had chicken for dinner (not freshly caught thank goodness!) and drank some home-brewed rum. I slept under the stars (okay, under a tarp under the stars) and awoke to the strange call of the Australian crow...you have to hear it...I won't even attempt to capture it in writing! But trust me, I thought something was being butchered!!

The weather has not cooperated for the most part....it's been rainy more than sunny but we've managed to have fun in spite of it. Maegan and Alun were so incredibly hospitable to me while I stayed with them. And, I know that no one at home will believe this, but Maegan may have sparked my interest in cooking...we made a few recipes together, which I've written down and plan on trying out when I get home!

View From the Bus to Sydney

Anyway, I'm now in Sydney. I caught the bus from Batemans Bay yesterday and said my good-byes to Magegan and Alun. The bus ride was a beautiful drive up the coast with scenic views of the ocean. I listened to some great music on the way....namely the Garden State Soundtrack, Sam Roberts, Imogen Heap, The Shins....all my favourites!! Arrived at 4pm with no place to stay, so I walked the area and found a hostel so stay in for the next few days.

Future plans for Australia...to see and do it all!

Wish me luck!

 

Last Days in Thailand

It's been awhile, I know!!!! Guess I'm officially having too much fun!!! But I'm finally settled in one place and able to sit on the internet and get a few things done....So where did I last leave off???

Right, so crappy ride to Krabi, but thank goodness I did it...Krabi is one of my top places in Thailand!!! I hung out with Larry, a friend I made at Koh Phangan and met up with here...it was great having another solo traveller to spend time with.

The scenery here is by far the most beautiful in the country...in fact, the pictures don't even begin to do it justice!! It gave me my first experience on the longtail boat, taking me from one bay to another, or to visit various islands in the area.

Thailand Rainforest

Rubber Plantation

Hot Springs Pool

Kayaking1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Larry and I did lots of excursions during our stay...we did a hike through the rainforest and soaked in a beautiful hot springs pool. We also visited a rubber tree plantation and learned how rubber is made....never really questioned it before, but now I know!! And we did some kayaking and cave exploring.

Me and Mor

Climbing

The other great thing about Krabi is the vast number of activities you can do while staying there!! It boasts an impressive amount of rock climbing cliffs, from beginner to advanced...I had to give it a try!! And who would've thought that un-sporty me would LOVE IT!!!! We went with Ao Nang Climbers, a company owned by a German woman, Judith, who has lived in Thailand for 17 years. Her husband, Mor, was our guide. 

I'm up there....can you see me??

Me and Judith

We headed to the 1-2-3 cliffs, where we did 4 climbs of varying degrees of difficulty. The last climb was definitely the best!!! I climbed 30 metres up in under 10 minutes....that might not be impressive to any of you pro rock climbers out there, but I felt really awesome after that climb!!! Well, actually that's not true...mentally I felt great, but I have bruises, scrapes and sore muscles as my badges of honour!!!!

After about a week with Larry in Krabi, I had to catch an overnight bus to Bangkok. I wanted to have a couple of days to do some shopping at cheap prices before heading to Australia, back to price reality!! The bus was okay...didn't leave me stranded anywhere but the seats weren't comfortable and they played Die Hard 4...literally the 5th time I've seen that movie played on a bus in Thailand!!!

Arrived in Bangkok at 5am and was dumped on the street 6 blocks north of Khao San Road....the driver obviously had an arrangement with the taxi drivers because they were all ready and waiting with exhorbitant prices...what were we to do?? We were far from where we'd planned on being before anything was open with no other taxi drivers around and loaded down with luggage...so the taxi drivers were able to pretty much charge us whatever they wanted. To put it in perspective, I paid 500 Baht for a 14 hour bus ride and 400Baht for a 15 minute taxi ride across the city...go figure!!!

I stayed in a hostel just off Sukhumvit Road, where I met Bethleham and Jess from the US. Was just about to head out to spend the morning wandering the area when I realized my visa had been stolen, along with a few other things...that'll put a kink in anyone's trip!!! Got it all sorted, though and treated myself to a big Singha Beer and Pad Thai for lunch in a cute cafeteria.

In all honestly, I was feeling pretty frustrated at this point....I was just hoping that something magical would happen to brighten my mood and remind me of the great things in this world....and this came in the form of a Norwegian/Thai guy named Willy. He noticed me eating alone and came over to say hello. After chatting for awhile, we became fast friends and spent the last three days of my Thailand time together, along with Jess and Bethleham. He knew Bangkok really well, and also spoke Thai fluently, so he was able to barter and ask questions on our behalf...really nice!!!

 

Dessert Buffet

Lunch among locals

But probably the best experience was the food!! Up until now, I felt like I'd missed out on the authentic Thai food experience. I told Willy this, and he took us to street carts, restaurants and sidewalk eateries to show us true Thai cuisine. We ate SO MUCH FOOD and it was amazing!! For lunch one day, we came across a cafeteria where a bunch of local professionals were having their lunch break, so we stopped in.

Night Bazaar

Do-it-Yourself Soup in MK's

We were literally the only foreigners in there!! We also did some shopping at the Night Bazaar, where I had a magical experience...there is a particular Thai song that each of the locals I've met on this trip have sung at one time or another, and I really wanted a CD of this song but had no way of getting it. As we were shopping, that song started playing on the radio, so Willy asked a shopkeeper to write down the name of the song in Thai. The next day, we went to a music shop and he was able to find it....so excited to have some Thai music to act as a soundtrack to my Thai adventures!!

One thing I've learned on this trip so far is that just when you're feeling down or uncertain, someone will come along and show you unbelievable kindness...Willy was an absolute angel to me in my last days in Thailand....I went from feeling like I just wanted to get out of here, to feeling as though I'd made a new best friend that I hated to say good-bye to...but that's what travel is all about it seems....

Almost missed my flight to Singapore because I got held up at Passport Control...I'd accidently told customs on arrival in Thailand that I'd be leaving the country on the 9th, when really my flight left on the 10th. They could've charged me a fine or given me trouble for it, but for whatever reason, they let me go and I barely made it on the plane before they closed the gate!!!

Delicious Banana Pancakes

So I have sent some postcards home to anyone I have an address for....hopefully they get there soon!!!

Postcards Home

I'm sad to leave Thailand...I really loved it and thought the people were amazing!! I'm gonna miss my banana pancakes, my new friends, incredible culture, and the feeling that I finally know my way around and feel comfortable travelling on my own here. But, gotta move on!!

So, now it's down under...

 

 

 

Ang is in Australia!!!!!

Ang arrived in Australia on Friday. She is planning on putting up some posts and pictures on the last part of her time in Thailand. She has limited internet access so hopefully she will be able to do this within the next few days. She's looking forward to some rest and relaxation this weekend - putting the tourist stuff aside for a few days and getting to know the people she's staying with.

She has a cell phone now. If anybody would like the number you can send her a message and she will give it to you.

Julie

Crappy Ride to Krabi

(Insert huge sigh)...

Travel brings with it some ups and downs, and over the last month, I have been extremely lucky...the good has by far outweighed the bad. Inevitably though, I was bound to have a bad day...and that day was January 2 as I travelled from the island of Koh Samui to the west coast of Thailand. This should have been a relatively simple trip, involving a ferry ride from Samui to the mainland, and then a bus to Krabi...I place the emphasis on should...

I had an early start at 6:30am when a taxi picked me up at my Samui bungalow and transported me to the pier, where I boarded a bus that in turn boarded the ferry...so far so good. On the ferry I chatted with Ava and Theresa from Austria and wrote a few postcards (yes, I am planning on sending postcards, but don't have everyone's address...if you'd like one, send me a message with your address and I'd be more than happy!!)

After about an hour, our ferry docked and I attempted to get back on the same bus when I was told that I was supposed to be on "that bus over there" so I got my backpack and went "over there". That bus took me to Suratthani, where the bus pulled over and told everyone to get off...we're still on the east coast of Thailand and nowhere near our destination, so confusion set in, but we all obliged, got off the bus and gathered our bags. Throughout all this, however, I reminded myself "Ang, you're in Thailand where things are done differently....this isn't home so you can't expect the same procedures in customer service to be followed....this is simply authentic Thai travel."

As soon as I got off the bus, a man asked to see my ticket and upon reading it, he said "Okay, come with me" and started leading me down the street. When I noticed that no one else from the rest of the group was being led away, I asked him where he was taking me. He said we were going back to the ticketing agent to pay for my ticket. Now, I paid for my tickets in Samui, so at this point I knew something was wrong. I told him it was already paid for, but he insisted that I wasn't going to get anywhere unless I paid again....cue panic...I was trying very hard to remain calm, but I was standing on the side of the road, my bus had driven away, I was being told I was stranded there and had to pay for something I'd already paid for...plus I was clearly surrounded by untrustworthy people. Panic is definitely a suitable word for the moment, and despite my best intentions to remain calm, I got slightly emotional and walked back to where I'd been dropped off and, luckily where the rest of the travellers still were, although not one of them offered any sort of help to me even though I was clearly upset.

I was trying to explain my situation to anyone that would listen in the hopes that a local might be able to help me, but was repeatedly told the same thing...I was stuck in Suratthani. Oh, and to make matters worse, it was at this point that I realized my watch had been stolen too. It could've been worse...I've realized the importance of keeping things in perspective....besides, it was $10 from Army and Navy and I couldn't figure out how to stop the alarm from going off everyday at 9:30pm...good riddance I say!!!!

I knew that on this trip I'd meet some of the wonderful people I know exist in this world, and it was at this very moment that one of those people crossed my path. Mr. Bang from Prathip Travel overheard my problem and introduced my to a nearby bus driver. He paid the bus driver to take me to Krabi, and took my ticket, saying that he would go to the travel agent that booked it and collect the money from them...he took a huge risk in this because if I hadn't paid, he wouldn't get anything. He also gave me his phone number and told me to call him if I had any problems...angels walk the earth, and he is one of them!!! I boarded the bus and rode all the way to Krabi....

Now, I'd love to say that my day improved drastically from this point on, but that is not the case...the bus dropped us off at Krabi Town and I had to catch a taxi to take me to Ao Nang where I'd booked a room. There were two couples riding with me, and we were all staying at different hotels...the driver had no clue where any one of them was. In fact, we seemed to know the area better than he did...strange...it'd be impossible to be newer to the area than we were!!! He pulled up infront of Ao Nang Hotel, saying this was my stop, and I said "No. I'm staying at Ao Nang Grand Inn." "Oh, same same" was his response, said with an enthusiastic nod and a toothy grin. To which I replied "Hotel. Grand Inn. Not same same." We ended up stopping at Ao Nang Villa, Ao Nang Resort, Ao Nang Guesthouse (they really need to be more creative with their names!) before finally finding the right one. I checked in with the biggest feeling of relief I've felt in a long time!!

It's been a day since that harrowing experience, and I must say that really do love it here and I'm not going to judge Thailand based on that one experience....one bad day doesn't even compare to the 22 good days I've had here, so I'm still a whole-hearted believer in Thai hospitality!!! I will just never travel by cheap bus again!!!

Feeding a Monkey

A Fertility Shrine??

Things are looking up...there is a banana pancake stand right across the street from my hotel (I'm completely addicted!!), plus I've met up with Larry, who I originally met at Koh Phangan. Today we took a longtail boat and explored Phra Nang Bay, which had not only monkeys and amazing scenery, but also a fetility shrine that was....kind of random.

Phra Nang Bay

Beautiful scenery in Krabi

Krabi is the most breathtaking place I've ever seen. It's surrounded by crystal blue/green waters speckled with tons of islands. In fact, I like it here so much that I've decided to stay rather than getting on another bus and going to Phuket....I think it's clear why I made that choice!!!!!

 

New Year's....Thai Style

Well this New Year's has got to be the best I've ever had!!!! I had to post about it right away while it is still vivid in my memory.

The original plan was to go to the Countdown Party at Koh Phangan...the local friend that Kyle made, Keng, was going to take us there with his friends (Marti, Phut, Tan, Nellie, and others)....but unfortunately a tropical storm hit the islands and made the seas really rough and unsafe for the speedboats, so we decided to stay on Samui. I was initially disappointed because I'd hoped to meet up with some of the Seetanu group over there, but I reminded myself that everything happens for a reason.

Keng picked us up at our bungalows and took us to his home, where a group of his friends were sitting on the front porch at a table filled with Singa Beer and authentic Thai appetizers. We sat down and were so warmly welcomed, immediately given glasses of beer with the infamous Thai smiles. They even picked fresh coconuts off the trees and poured us glasses of coconut milk to try. We learned the Thai way of saying cheers ('chung gao'), and got a lot of practice saying it throughout the evening!!!

We then headed to a restaurant at Chewang Beach, where the long table at which we sat was filled with incredible Thai food - fried rice, curry prawns, spicy soup, beef....I've never eaten so much in my life!! At this point, fireworks were going off all over the beach...you could feel the excitement rising in the air as midnight neared....

And now the most magical part of the evening....at 11:30 we walked to the beach, right up to the water's edge so that the waves were lapping up against our feet. The beach was absolutely packed, even more so than at the Full Moon Party, but again everyone was there simply to have a good time and I couldn't have felt safer or more comfortable. Now here's the hard part....what I saw was indescribable, and yet I'm faced with the task of trying to explain it in a way that does it justice....I'll do my best...

The sky literally took my breath away...here on Samui there are Good Luck lanterns that you can light and release into the sky. They're quite big, probably about 3 feet tall and made of a white paper fabric shaped as a cylinder. There were literally thousands of these speckling the sky like golden stars, slowly floating down the beach being carried in the wind and creeping upwards in the night. Mixed among these, massive displays of fireworks were being set off all around the bay as far as the eye could see, with some no more than 20 feet from where I stood....they literally went off directly above my head. This scene was truly magical....not something you could ever capture on film, but can only hope to imprint forever in your memory...

Last night, I escaped the tourist world and joined the local culture. I was given a taste of Thai hospitality and witnessed the very best of Thailand. The people here are the most genuine I've ever met, wanting nothing more than to spend time showing you their country and make you as comfortable as possible. I am lucky to be here and cannot begin to express how much this New Year's meant to me.

I have to believe that 2008 is going to be a good year based on this most incredible start...

Happy New Year!!!

Fun and Sun on the Thai Islands

Hi everyone back home!!! I'm all settled in at this internet cafe with the sole intention of filling you all in on my time at Koh Phangan and here on Koh Samui. Alas, my camera has decided not to cooperate (or more likely the computer is being stubborn) but in any case, my pictures will have to be posted another time. I guess I'll just have to be really descriptive in my writing!!

Anyway, way back on December 19 I took two overnight buses to get to Koh Phangan, in what has so far been the roughest trip yet!!! The first bus was pretty bad....no lights, no air, no leg room. Not to mention the fact that I was bumped from a window seat, leaving me to lean on a poor chinese guy throughout the night, and the french giant behind me refused to let me recline my seat. ...I won't even get into the onboard thai toilet..... Luckily the second bus was VIP and very nice (although the first bus had VIP on the windows as well, so I think that's more to make tourists feel special rather than to describe the comfort of travel!!) Arrived at the port and caught the first ferry out to the islands, visiting along the way with some Argentinian hippies who played the guitar.

Seetanu Bungalows is an incredible place to stay on Koh Phangan (I have Scott Gerylo to thank for the recommendation!) We were put up in the Taj Mahal of bungalows, complete with air con, TV, hot shower, separate living room, and beachfront location. I went for a swim and lounged on the beach, chatting with Larry from Montreal, until Kyle and RaeAnne arrived (apparantly their journey in from Phuket was rough as well!)

We were so lucky to be staying here when we did, because the people were incredibly fun!!! We all ended up drinking in the Seetanu restaurant/bar one night and got to know each other. Fun group of guys from Australia (one of whom I may see again in Melbourne), Caroline from England, Nick and Renatta from New Zealand....honestly such a wonderful group of people!!!

Our days on Phangan were spent mainly on the beach, although RaeAnne and I did feel adventurous one day and rent a motorbike.....SO SCARY!!!! Let me put this into perspective....we rented the bike from a girl who spoke very limited english, so she couldn't really explain how to drive it, and we had already nominated me as the driver, so I was more than a little nervous!! Plus they don't wear helmets very much here and certainly don't have them readily available if you do want one. But hey, how hard can it be right??

After doing a few practice runs, RaeAnne hopped on the back and we made a less than graceful take-off and started off down the road. We met Larry on his way back to Seetanu and he offered to take us to Than Nam Rak, a beautiful waterfall in the middle of the island, so we followed him and gave him a few moments of pure entertainment with my driving skills (nearly took out a trailer hitch and I almost lost my sandals by putting my feet down before stopping the bike). Locals would even stop to watch me take-off, knowing that I'd be hilarious!! But it was fun and just adds another funny story to my trip!!! Oh and the waterfall was beautiful and absolutely worth the embarassment of getting there!

Spent Christmas Eve on the beach, with me still hiding out in the shade!! That night we headed to the notorious Full Moon Party at Haad Rin. There were at least 15 people all crammed into the Seetanu truck on the way down. Once arriving at the beach, RaeAnne and I each got buckets of Thai whiskey, red bull and coke, and those lasted us for the rest of the night...  Really though, the Full Moon Parties are not that crazy....they're crazy in the sense that there are thousands of drunk people crammed onto the beach, with rave music playing from coutless different bars and with specific areas roped off for those who cannot handle their booze and need a place to lay down without being trampled. But I never witnessed any fights or robbery, and generally found everyone to be there simply to have a good time. I believe I had a good time, although the night passed so quickly that before I knew it, it was 7am and we were taking a cab back to the bungalows...certainly not the traditional snack night I normally do on Christmas Eve, but when in Rome, right???

I'm not going to spend a lot of time talking about Christmas Day, because frankly, it wasn't great. In ways it passed just like any other day here, with the sun shining and the beer flowing. But I just found that all day there was a cloud of blueness, perhaps because there were reminders everywhere that it was Christmas, and yet family and traditions were no where to be found. Plus calling home has been incredibly difficult from here, as there are no pay phones that accept calling cards, and the overseas call centres charge close to $1/minute. We perked up the next day though and went snorkelling at Nangyuan Island and Koh Tao - seriously saw flourescent coloured fish!!!! Beautiful!!!!

I hated leaving Phangan.....I knew I'd miss the people and the island atmosphere, which is far less touristy than Samui. But we said our good-byes and caught the ferry. Kyle actually made friends with one of the workers who is from Samui so he offered to show us around the island some time during our stay. Yet another example of the incredible generousity among the Thai people!!

Anyway, we did end up going out for dinner and clubbing with Kyle's friend and are planning on going to the New Year's Countdown Party on Phangan with him tonight. After that, Kyle and RaeAnne head back to Bangkok to fly home and I'll leave Jan 2 to Krabi and Phuket for a week. The three of us have gotten along so well on this trip...we've spent a lot of time together, but I've also given them their space here and there. I'll miss them when they go!!!

So I think that about does it for the update...Honestly a lot of our time on the islands has been spent on the beach and in the bar - gets kind of tough to change up the story and keep it interesting when you have limited material, so hopefully I've shared my more interesting experiences!! I'll try to get my pictures up as soon as possible.

Sending loads of love home and hope everyone has a great New Year's!!!!!